It was as though time pulled me into itself. Standing still in such mud-filled, salt floating wonder I beseechingly asked the question. “Aware of awareness, where does it arise from, how is it we consciously experience this finite existence?
The hot dry emptiness and sun’s bright gaze burning away all shadows of doubt. My spirit strengthened as I eclipsed certain parts of myself while wandering. Walking through Masada I questioned how it was such a place was built.
Ein Gedi’s waterfalls enlivening what felt to be joyful liberation and tranquility. Finding a hidden spot to relish the freshness of the waterfalls I felt the ease of the environment soak into me. Such exquisiteness.
I chose Abraham tours for this day of sightseeing. The drive down to the Dead Sea winds with the pressure of going lower and lower and a quiet awe took over everyone on our bus. The dead sea comes into sight it’s cerulean blue amidst the sandy mountain terrain. A place of grandiose beauty filled me with awe struck wonder as the bus went lower. Surreal, it felt like another world, with caves dotting the mountains that hid many secrets.
Sinkholes made the roads impassable at certain points, detouring to new roads that were made. We were duly informed by our fabulous tour guide, that over the past 20 years, due to global warming, the Dead Sea has been drying up 3 meters a year. Spas built 15 years ago are now far away from what once was the shore.
My DIATRIBE:
Such a stunning sea while floating in it, the health benefits from the sulphur to salt to mud are numerous. Yet 100 years from now, will it still be here? It put global warming into a very real perspective.
Because it’s drying up, at the beach I was at, plastics and non biodegradeble materials were stuck in the mud. I went around plucking them up and filling the garbage can, to help in the way I could, to preserve the gorgeousness of the sea.
My mind started reeling. What is happening to the dead sea reinforced the notion that we are not prioritizing for 100-200 years from now, or our next 7 generations. How is it we have allowed the plundering of our resources to such a damaging effect on our planet?
We are polluting our air, soil and water, due to our reliance on fossil fuels and chemicals with no real solutions being offered.
What will happen to our resources? How is it they’ve become privatized and corporatized? Our reliance on fossil fuels is the biggest detriment to our environment and future, yet big money still wages itself in it. There are many more sustainable and green measures we as a race could and should be taking with our current environmental problems.
Hoping we could move into a more sustainable future in the upcoming years, to preserve the beauty of our gorgeous planet.
“You’re not scared to be in Israel based on what they say in the news about the conflict?” I was asked many times. My answer “No, not at all.” My heart felt at home in Jerusalem, a feeling that felt like a deep surge of ancient wisdom. Knowing is hard to explain. Trusting it even more of a challenge. Explaining it can become nonsensical. This journey became a reclamation.
Old City Walls
Old City:
The roots in Jerusalem go deep, winding throughout history with many ideas originated there still circulating throughout our world. Quite an unbelievable place given it’s the epicenter of Abrahamic religions.
Within the old city walls, there are quarters; Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian. A representation of everyone living and working amongst each other within the ancient walls.
I am not religious, but honor the core spiritual tenets religions encompass. I’ve questioned throughout my life what I believe in, which is constantly evolving as I do. Many of the prophets which are at the heart of religions have similar messages: To be a good human.
I felt a release in my heart as I walked by a church singing prayers in Aramaic, such a beautiful sound, it rang like a song. Seeing some of the stations of the cross, feeling the intensity, I was lead to the Western Wall. I didn’t plan to go, it called me to it. Here there were deep prayers happening and some singing, before Shabbat started Friday night.
Touching the wall, leaving my note, I prayed for peace and the thought came to me:
What does peace look like? Honoring traditions and still collectively moving beyond mindsets that separate and cause wars for our future generations to have a healthy existence. Including the mindset of greed that perpetuates the corporate stronghold on our planet which is destroying our natural resources.
I felt a reclamation of unity and what has been lost and fought in the name of religions. I know in my heart there is a peaceful way for us all to live in harmony and many things are collectively dismantling so we can see what the solutions will be.
I found a spot that had wine and cheese, people were gathered outside at tables. Here I met a group of Palestinians. While talking I asked them about the conflict, which from a perspective in the west seems extremely tense. I was told “We’re like cousins, we work together, live together, we come here every day from Bethlehem, the sensationalism in your news is not the way it is over here.” I was invited to go to Bethlehem, next time I visit I most certainly will.
I heard from local Israelis as well a resounding “We all just want to live our lives, hopefully in peace.”
The Holocaust Museum:
The building itself is ingeniously designed, leading from one room to another in a zig zagging way. Inside, the videos, pictures and remnants are intense, sad, horrendous yet important to be seen. Honoring the past and victims, so as history never repeats itself in that way.
I saw this quote, which has been circulating recently, bringing tears to my eyes:
“First they came for the Socialists, and I did not speak out—
Because I was not a Socialist. Then they came for the Trade Unionists, and I did not speak out— Because I was not a Trade Unionist. Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out— Because I was not a Jew. Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.”
~ Martin Niemöller
Perfuniq:
I had my own custom made perfume at Perfuniq, which my flatmate from my airbnb, whom I’ll call Mariella who is so sweet, warm and hospitable, brought me to. Here I met the owner who makes all the scents and his wife, both incredibly nice. It took about an hour, tailored for me to what I liked and my preferences, based on my answers. A proper scent-sation. Such a brilliant place, I loooove my perfume, we decided the name is “The Painted Veil”
Local Jerusalem:
On Saturday to honor Shabbat many places are closed. I went to a local place that was open, meaning not Kosher. I had a delicious dinner and met another American. Our discussion ranging from biology to dark matter, to the quantum enigma and more. Mind blown would be an understatement, my mind was righteously bent after conversing.
Local Jerusalem life felt like home. If you’re ever in Jerusalem I highly recommend staying at Mariella’s place, contact me if so. At this Airbnb, I was invited to eat homemade food with friends and family members of Mariella’s and learned new Israeli recipes which were so scrumptious. Like Israeli salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, olive oil and lemon, so refreshing and tasty. Pita sandwiches with flavorful tahini, pickles and tuna with eggs, veggies and fresh herbs. Pasta that was so fresh tasting, most of the ingredients from the local market with a bit of spiciness that lingered in the garlic sauce.
Sai Baba.
From experience, I understood that family is important to Israeli culture. People have migrated there from all over the world. There is a merging of cultures with similar values; cherishing family, community and tradition.
I talked love, relationships, dating, the world, culture, customs and the process of coming into self-love as a woman in our modern age, with Mariella. Even though we live thousands of miles away, our ideas were of a similar nature. Love in a relationship coming from a healthy place, being patient for the right “him’ to come along. Even if not, being happy with self no matter what. When self care is honored, it means caring for others at full capacity. Reciprocity.
I left at the beginning of Rosh Hashanah, with a sendoff of beautiful wishes and a fresh pomegranate. My intentions were to release all the ways I blundered the past year and welcome with an open heart what will enter for the new year.
Toda Raba
xo,
Nicole
I’ll be posting soon about the Dead Sea and Eilat. Much more of what I experienced will be highlighted in my memoir.
In getting lost, I tend to find more of myself. It’s beyond wandering, it’s a soul calling. Leaving Morocco on an energized note, I had a fabulous, culture-drenched time in such a unique country. The flight to Tel Aviv, I struck up conversation with the person sitting next to me, he was great and gave me a list of local and touristy things to see and do in Tel Aviv. Taking the train into Tel Aviv from the airport was clean, quick and affordable.
I immediately felt an ease being in Tel Aviv. I found my favorite coffee spot, City Cafe which I frequented every morning. Sipping the rich, strong flavor of Israeli coffee one morning, to iced latte the next. The fantastic people there got to know me by name. My vagabond nature grounding in to the habitual aspect of every day living. Sometimes being thousands of miles from home, makes me realize that ultimately home is within.
I had many plans of places to go, yet my spirit needed the sea. The beach had a calming strength to it, one that called me to it day after day. It felt warm and nourishing floating and swimming in the softly rolling waves as the salt, sun and air soaked into me. I had lunches at spots on the coast, watching kids learn how to surf and people enjoying their time. Everyone was super nice and loved showing me what they could about the city, and inviting me along with what they were doing.
On my way to the beach I visited Camel Market, wandering through stands offering gifts, jewelry, fresh foods, juices, olives, cheeses, souvenirs and the likes. Each stand having a unique vibe, playing different music that perks the ears up. Stopping at some to buy fresh foods or little trinkets.
Value was noticeably placed on fresh, seasonal foods, herbs and spices. The freshness and quality of the food blew my mind. I ate at so many phenomenal restaurants. The flavor profiles were fresh, rich, spicy or sweet, with herbs and spices that left lingering taste sensations. There were so many amazing places I stopped at, to go through them all would take up pages. I’ll highlight a few:
North Abraxas: Usually you have to make reservations to eat here, luckily there was one spot at the bar in which I shared conversation and appetizers with those around me. The ambience was perfect, the fish so succulent and moist, freshly caught in a tomato sauce with melted cheese and veggies and scrumptiously spicy. Dipping oven baked bread into the sauce, it was so delicious I couldn’t get enough. I relinquished my normal eating habits of gluten and dairy free while traveling, it was so worthwhile.
Supra: I decided to walk Rothschild Blvd and picked a spot that suited my fancy. I walked by Supra, then came back to it. Walking in it was quiet, I sat at the bar chatting with the awesome staff who were setting up for a party. Within an hour of eating a Georgian dish with meat and rice and blends of spices, the place was packed and there were dancers who took over the place. Inviting me to dance up on the bar, which was AMAZING and way out of my norm.They thought I was professional contemporary dancer and kept inviting me to dance with them, for everyone. What a compliment and so fun!
Emilia Romagna: I was strolling by on my way back from the beach and heard music playing, which was a burst of new tracks that were house, soft bass, disco-ey middle eastern sounding. Ears piqued, I had to stop in. Here I ended up watching the chefs work their magic with chopping, mixing, cooking, breads and mediterranean freshness. I had a salad like a Caprese but with a ball of Buratta cheese, fresh tomatoes, basil and sweet yet tangy Balsamic vinaigrette and oils. Mmmmm.
The old city, Jaffa Port, is 4,000 years old. Walking around, soaking in the ancient grounds, feeling the depths of something deep within remembered. How long humans have created ways to connect to other parts of the world, by sea and ground, importing and exporting, to bring gems of different lands. It’s a gorgeous sight on the sea, from the old city to new city.
I felt such a beachy yet edgy ease in Tel Aviv, so much culture and Hebrew sounded melodious and grounded. If I were to compare to America, I found it to be a blend of NYC, Miami and San Francisco totally Israeli style. Most people spoke English making it easy to get around. The music, wow, the music. Everywhere I went, it was so diverse and dynamic sounding, I was told it’s the music capital of the middle east.
Trusting my instincts meant understanding which step to take next through listening to my heart, mind and soul, when they’re in complete alignment it is like a song, or flow. One that has a different hum and tune wherever I am.
My mind whispered “move, go, stop, talk, play, eat, relax, process, take in the sun, or shade. Do what it is your heart is called to as you venture lands unknown yet familiar, for your inner compass always knows where to go, following it will lead you to your calling.”
xo,
Nicole
I’ll be back with more of my travels through Israel…
Purpose and Dream 